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Sewing Hems in Dress Pants

Techniques used in sewing hems vary, but some of the things you'll learn here are similar to those you use to hem jeans. As you improve your skills in sewing, hems will be something you can alter frequently and with little hassle.

mark hem with pin
STEP ONE: OBSERVE


This pin marks the amount of hem I need to remove from these slacks. In this case, the same amount needs to be removed all the way around.
measure amount to shorten
STEP TWO


Double check the measurement and write it down somewhere. You can see here that it is 4 inches.
mark new hem line
STEP THREE


Using tailor's chalk, mark a line 4 inches from the existing hem line. Continue around the whole leg. It will look like this.
hem line and seam line chalk marks
STEP FOUR
Then mark a second chalk line 1 3/8" from your first line. This new line is to be marked down from your first line, toward the hem. Again, mark it all the way around the leg.
examine existing hem line
STEP FIVE
Here is the existing hem. Try to make your new hem as much like the ready wear hem as possible. Take a digital picture so you can remember how to put it back the way you found it.
remove existing stitching
STEP SIX


Remove the blind stitching that attaches the hem facing to the pants leg. If you do it right, it will come out as one continuous thread!
Graphic Coming Soon
STEP SEVEN
Remove the stitches attaching the hem tape to the pants. You could replace it with purchased hem tape. If the color is a good match, though, you should reuse the original. Press flat after removing.
cut on new hem allowance line
STEP EIGHT


Cut the pants along the bottom chalk line. You now have only the 1 3/8" hem allowance extending past the new hem line marking.
press hem allowance to inside
STEP NINE
Fold the hem allowance under and press on the chalk line. The chalk will disappear and the pants will be the desired length. If you prefer, do this with the pants inside out.
Sew on hem tape
STEP TEN
Unfold the hem. Align the edge of the hem tape with the bottom of the pants. Stitch. The tape should extend slightly past the end of the hem allowance. If desired, use pins to keep the tape secure.
view of sewn hem tape raw edges
STEP ELEVEN
Here is a close up of the tape attached to the hem allowance. The tape is stitched at its bottom edge and will hide the raw edges of the line you cut in STEP EIGHT.
hand stitched hem
STEP TWELVE
Hand stitch the hem tape to the pants leg, picking up only a couple of threads at a time. This keeps your stitches almost invisible.

So, sewing hems on dress pants can be easy when you pay attention to the details! The main things to focus on are correct measurements, tiny hand stitches and good pressing.

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